Author: Evan Slater
Publisher: Chronicle Books
ISBN: 1452116490
Size: 46.51 MB
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Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography.


Author: エヴァンスレーター
ISBN: 9784756247629
Size: 66.99 MB
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北太平洋、南インド洋、南太平洋、大西洋の海域別に、嵐の中から海岸まで、うねりがたどる道のりを気象現象とともに追った「波」の写真集。外洋の大波から浜辺に打ち寄せる ...

Beaches Of The Tasmanian Coast And Islands

Author: Andrew D. Short
Publisher: Sydney University Press
ISBN: 1920898123
Size: 15.20 MB
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Because waves are dependent on the prevailing winds they are closely
correlated with the wind systems and range from high waves during westerly and
northerly gales, to calms when winds are light or offshore. Figure 1.18 Monthly
mean wave period for Cape Sorell) and Storm Bay (lower Hs) and period. East
Coast The east coast receives waves from two major sources. First are the
refracted westerly swell waves, which can arrive year round, but substantially
reduced in height as ...

The Encyclopedia Of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN: 9780156032513
Size: 54.89 MB
Format: PDF, ePub, Mobi
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As the swell radiates out through the water — a large, organized swell will travel
about 25 miles per hour— the waves begin to organize themselves into sets, with
the fastest waves moving out in front and the slower waves grouping up behind
them. Similar to a pack of bicyclists, slower ... Surf forecasting continues to
improve year by year, but wave-related permutations as of 2003 remain
incalculable, while the final outcome — a breaking wave— remains breathtaking.
Waves and ...

Methods For Analysing Wind Wave And Swell Data To Estimate On An Annual Basis The Number Of Days And The Maximum Duration Of Periods During Which Port And Ship Operations Will Be Impeded By These Elements

Publisher: PIANC
Size: 39.77 MB
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List of symbols Ep = Encounter probability F(H'S} = Mean frequency per year of
storms of level H's = 8760f(H's} {year— 1) f(h's) = Mean frequency per hour of
upcrossings of the level H's (hi— 1) Hs = Significant wave height {mean wave
height of the highest one-third of the waves (m) Hc = Parameter of scale in the
Weibull distribution of Hs (see Fig. 11) (m) H0 = Parameter in the Weibull
distribution of Hs (lower limit of wave height) (m) Y = Parameter of shape in the
Weibull distribution ...

West Beach Resort Development Honouliuli Oahu

Size: 22.38 MB
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In the absence bf all wave activity for periods longer than 6 hours the flushing
would be limited to tidal exchange, i.e. a 1/4 to 1/2 times volume flushing rate.
Thus, importance is placed upon comprehensively knowing the low end of the
wave spectrum at the site coastline. Figures and Tables included show a
summary of historical wave data and information applicable to the site coastline.
The historical results indicate that 341 days of the year waves and swell greater
than one foot in ...

Western Lng Project Liquefaction Terminal At Nikiski Ak Receiving Terminal At Point Conception Ca

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southwest swell. The highest west-southwest swell occurred during a February
storm and had a significant height of ll feet with a period of 15 seconds. The most
common significant wave periods were 6 to 8 seconds in the case of southeast
seas, 13 to 15 seconds for westerly swell, and 15 to 17 seconds for southerly
swell. The latter ... 081 estimates for lOO-year waves indicate that for
northwesters, sea wave heights would not exceed 6 feet and swells would be in
the 27-foot range.

Yachting Monthly S Channel Havens

Author: Ken Endean
Publisher: A&C Black
ISBN: 1472901665
Size: 40.67 MB
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Swell waves are those that persist after the wind that generated them has ceased
to blow, or that propagate into areas where the weather conditions are different.
In the Channel, east winds have only a limited fetch, from the Straits of Dover,
and their leftover waves usually pass through and clear the area within about 24
hours. Ocean swell, on the other hand, is created by depressions in the Atlantic
and can be detected on most days of the year, the waves generally coming in
from the ...

Extreme Waves

Author: Craig B. Smith
Publisher: National Academies Press
ISBN: 9780309100625
Size: 13.45 MB
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The helmsman, lulled into complacency by the endless succession of uneventful
swell, will suddenly experience more dramatic action as the ship is tossed about
by the shorter-period waves. A common remark muttered under these
circumstances (as the galley crew picks the dishes up off the floor) is, “Where did
that come from?” Today, satellite observations of the oceans are leading to
improved understanding of swell patterns throughout the year. By using satellite-
based altimeters ...

Kwajalein Atoll Causeway Project Marshall Islands Usa Permit Application Discharge Of Fill Material

Size: 65.53 MB
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North Pacific swell is produced by severe winter storms in the Aleutian area of the
north Pacific ocean and by midlatitude low pressure areas. North swell may occur
throughout the year but is largest and most frequent during the winter months of
October through March. No quantitative data is available regarding the
characteristics and frequency of South and North Pacific swell in Kwajalein. It is
reasonable, however, to assume that the characteristics of these waves are
similar to those ...